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Worth his salt: A chef's edible keepsake

Updated: Sep 8, 2011 04:22 PM EDT
© Damon Mattson / Bonnier © Damon Mattson / Bonnier
  • RecipesMore>>

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    Wednesday, July 23 2014 10:09 AM EDT2014-07-23 14:09:04 GMT
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  • Blueberry Cheesecake Bars with Oreo Cookies, 7/22/14

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  • Melinda's chocolate peanut butter "dump" cake

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    Tuesday, July 22 2014 9:20 AM EDT2014-07-22 13:20:16 GMT
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    From Melinda Mayo, My Chocolate Peanut Butter "Dump" Cake was a hit this morning on Daybreak. I love to cook, but I don't bake a lot, so I bought this new cookbook with easy recipes. Chocolate Peanut Butter Cake 1 Pkg (about 15 oz.) chocolate fudge cake mix 1 1/4 cups water... 3 eggs 1/3 cup vegetable oil 2/3 cup creamy peanut butter, *warmed divided 1 cup mini peanut butter cups *Microwave peanut butter on LOW (30%) about 2 mins until pourable 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray 13 x 9...More >>


By Todd Knoll


I grew up in Hawaii, on the south shore of Oahu. The waves come in clean and rough there; seawater collects amid lava rocks and heats in the sun.

Walking among the pools as a kid, I could see the salt forming. I'd scoop it up and take it home. It had an umami flavor from the red ogo seaweed in the tide.

A few years back, I started harvesting sea salt to use in the kitchen at Jordan Vineyard & Winery in California's Sonoma County, where I'm the chef.

The first time I tried it was in Naxos, Greece, during the summer: It was so hot, I just left the seawater outside to dehydrate. Four days later, I had big dusky flakes. The salt had a smokiness that was great on lamb.

For me, harvesting sea salt is a way of extending the concept of terroir; the salt takes on the character of the waters it comes from, and it pairs beautifully with local foods.

Off Kauai, Hawaii, the sea is iron-rich; the salt adds meaty notes to pork dishes.

In Baja, Mexico, I collected crystal-clear seawater while fishing; the resulting salt was pure and briny—perfect to cure and grill the mackerel I caught there.

Making salt is easy enough, and if done properly, it's safe. I stay away from storm runoff and collect in areas where the sea is pristine.

First, I boil the water for a minimum of six minutes to kill bacteria. Then I set it in a nonreactive shallow pan in the sun to slowly dehydrate. That way, I get large, natural crystals, which add beautiful texture to dishes.

If I'm in a rush, I boil out the water on the stove; the crystals end up smaller, but the flavor is the same.

I love it because it's a living souvenir of my travels; every one of my salts has a story. I've even taken to mixing the salts with other ingredients, like dried tomatoes or juniper. 
 

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