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Thursday April 16, 2009 at 5:02 pm
Barbecue with a recipe that's 7-decades old


I thought I'd gone to barbecue heaven this week... after sampling one of my favorite barbecue restaurant's newest entrees.  Barbecue Bologna - and I'm not even a big bologna fan.  But anything that comes off the smoker at Sim's is worth trying. 

Owner Ron Settlers took over the business in the 1970's from his uncle and founder Allen Sims... and still does the recipes just like they did in 1937 when the restaurant opened as a small neighborhood  cafe.  Folks came from all over town to the "lil joint" in the "South End" of Little Rock for good times, catfish and hot dogs.  They would even dress up for a night on the town and  an evening of dominoes or to dance to the music from one of the 45's in the jukebox.  Allen Sims got the idea of expanding the menu to barbecue from his father-in-law.  That family tradition has been passed down through generations and the Sim's name is now synonymous with barbecue in Arkansas, and arguably many other states.  Settlers' boasts it's one of a handful of surviving and thriving black neighborhood businesses that earned its prominence and distinction at a time when African Americans were not allowed to eat in the dining rooms of  other public restaurants.  Since that time, the restaurant has expanded to other locations (Geyer Springs and Barrow Road) and attracts a diverse clientele. 

The original Sim's was at 33rd and Arch and has moved to a much bigger location, a renovated portion of the former "Sav-a-lot" store at Roosevelt and Broadway.   Lighted parking and a huge dining room offer patrons a more comfortable setting - Settlers says since he was able to design this layout himself, he put in place everything he wanted to improve at the old location.  But not to forget from "whence they came," a portion of the new Sim's is dedicated to the old - a seating area with the table and chairs from the former location, including the domino table, the old phone booth and the jukebox now with a contemporary flare, this one plays cd's.

Leroy Williams has been the chief grill operator for 30 years and knows his stuff.  He arrives every morning around 5:30 to fire up the grill - they do it the old fashioned way, no fancy machinery- and use hickory logs.  That's what you call some true smoked "flava."  After putting the finishing touches on the 400-500 pounds of meat, he's stirring up the baked beans and the greens.  Only, Settlers does the sauce ( the secret tangy mustard-based sauce is my absolute favorite and when you get a Sim's rib, you instinctively know where its from because of its distinctive taste) and he has the recipe committed to memory  - so no stealing family secrets here. 

Sim's now offers a variety of sandwiches including smoked chicken breast.  Their list of meats include ribs, chopped pork or beef, chicken and sausage.  They'll also tempt you with cornbread muffins... and homemade sweet potato pie for dessert.  They used to offer Red Velvet Cake, but Settlers says the aunt who used to make them can't do it anymore and he simply hasn't been able to find another recipe that was equal to or better than hers.

The new Sim's location provides a suitable atmosphere for families and is quite affordable.  Although, I do miss the charm and nostalgia of the old Sim's - as long as they didn't change a thing about the recipe - no complaints from me.  Inexpensive. 

Sim's hours of operation are:  Monday - Thursday, 11 am - 9 pm and Friday - Saturday, 11 am - 10 pm.

New Address for Original Sims location:  2415 Broadway St, Little Rock, AR‎ - (501) 372-6868

Other Locations:  1307 John Barrow Rd # A, Little Rock, AR‎ - (501) 224-2057‎; 7601 Geyer Springs Rd, Little Rock, AR‎ - (501) 562-8844

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Comments on Barbecue with a recipe that's 7-decades old
Don B
I've known Ron for 15 years or more. We built one of his first stainless steel smokers and have some projects in the works now. The BBQ is great and did you know that he cators as well? Thanks Don b

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